Notes from the road — faith, heritage and the Türkiye behind the guidebooks.
Nine hours and thirteen minutes of daylight on the shortest day, four to eleven degrees, and a wind that cancels the Bosphorus boats. What winter in Istanbul actually does to a programme — and why we still sell it.
The crowds go home, the queues vanish, and the palaces are half empty. A short case for seeing the Queen of Cities in the one month nobody recommends.