Notes from the road — faith, heritage and the Türkiye behind the guidebooks.
A companion to our piece on why most people see Denizli for two hours. If you are staying rather than passing through, this is what the nights are for — ancient cities, caves, waterfalls, vineyards, looms, and a rooster that crows for twenty seconds.
Pamukkale received 2,299,914 visitors last year, second only to Ephesus. Nobody publishes how long any of them stayed. I think the reason nobody measures it is that the answer is about two hours.
For nineteen centuries Colossae existed as a text and not as a place. In 2025, twenty-five kilometres from our office, someone finally started digging it.